A form of skincare superstar, vitamin C. Even though we are massive vitamin C fans,  Ascorbyl Palmitate  (AP) is our least favorite. By continuing to browse our site you accept our cookie policy. Has to be combined with other preservatives. Algenist Genius Collagen Calming Relief ingredients explained: Water (Aqua, Eau), Collagen (Vegetable)*, Squalane, Glycerin, Hydrogenated Polyisobutene, Dimethicone, Butyrospermum Parkii (Shea) Butter, Palmitic Acid, Simmondsia Chinensis (Jojoba) Seed Oil, Persea Gratissima (Avocado) Oil, Helianthus Annuus (Sunflower) Seed Oil, Stearic Acid, Cetearyl Alcohol, PEG-100 Stearate, Glyceryl Stearate, … Chemically speaking, it is the attachment of a glycerin molecule to the fatty acid called stearic acid. 103 k mentions J’aime. It also gives a "pleasing product aesthetics", so no wonder it's popular. A great skin soother and moisturizer, and it even shows promising anti-aging benefits. It leaves a nice non-greasy, non-heavy feeling on the skin. So what the heck is a wax ester and why is that important anyway? puts it in his awesome blog post, squalane's main things are "emolliency, surface occlusion, and TEWL prevention all with extreme cosmetic elegance". There is also some research showing that citric acid with regular use (think three months and 20% concentration) can help sun-damaged skin, increase skin thickness and some nice hydrating things called glycosaminoglycans in the skin. As cosmetic chemist Colins writes it, "its safety really is beyond any doubt". It's also a solvent and can boost the effectiveness of preservatives. Other tasks include helping the product to absorb faster and deeper into the skin (penetration enhancer), making the product spread nicely over the skin (slip agent), and attracting water (humectant) into the skin. At first glance, it seems like your average emollient plant oil: it looks like an oil and it's nourishing and moisturizing to the skin but if we dig a bit deeper, it turns out that jojoba oil is really special and unique: technically - or rather chemically - it's not an oil but a wax ester (and calling it an oil is kind of sloppy). Ingredients: Water (Aqua, Eau), Collagen (Vegetable)*, Squalane, Glycerin, Hydrogenated Polyisobutene, Dimethicone, Butyrospermum Parkii (Shea) Butter, Palmitic Acid, Simmondsia Chinensis (Jojoba) Seed Oil, Persea Gratissima (Avocado) Oil, Helianthus Annuus (Sunflower) Seed Oil, Stearic Acid, Cetearyl Alcohol, PEG-100 Stearate, Glyceryl Stearate, Parachlorella Beijerinckii Exopolysaccharides, Chlorella … BTW, it’s also a food additive. Works in synergy with Vitamin C. Amino acids are important natural moisturizing factors (NMFs), that can be found naturally in the skin where they help the epidermis (upper layer of the skin) to stay nice and hydrated. Amino acids are important natural moisturizing factors (NMFs), that can be found naturally in the skin where they help the epidermis (upper layer of the skin) to stay nice and hydrated. It also occurs naturally in our body and is used as a food additive. 10 day results, always. Ingredient-level innovations. Its typical use level in most cream type formulas is 2-3%. It's known and grown for jojoba oil, the golden yellow liquid coming from the seeds (about 50% of the weight of the seeds will be oil). The extract coming from the popular garden plant Calendula or Marigold. Leslie Bauman notes in Cosmetic Dermatology that one application of sunflower oil significantly speeds up the recovery of the skin barrier within an hour and sustains the results 5 hours after using it. Marigold extract - contains flavonoids that give the plant anti-inflammatory and antioxidant properties. Fatty alcohols have a long oil-soluble (and thus emollient) tail part that makes them absolutely non-drying and non-irritating and are totally ok for the skin. Once inside the skin, it hydrates, but not from the outside - putting pure water on the skin (hello long baths!) They found that despite the large molecular size beta-glucan does penetrate into the skin, even into the dermis (the middle layer of the skin where wrinkles form). It's one of the active parts of Chamomile that contains about 30% of bisabolol. It is very common in gel-type formulas that also contain an oil-phase as well as in cleansers as it also works with most cleansing agents (unlike a lot of other thickeners). Propanediol is a natural alternative for the often used and often bad-mouthed propylene glycol. It's a very rich, highly moisturizing emollient oil that makes the skin smooth and nourished. A multi-functional, silky feeling helper ingredient that can do quite many things. GENIUS Collagen Calming Relief is a concentrated but ultra-gentle restorative treatment that is specifically formulated to treat mild skin discomfort. Bottom line: Beta-glucan is a great ingredient, especially for sensitive skin. Second, jojoba oil is the most similar to human sebum (both being wax esters), and the two are completely miscible. The oil coming from the pulp of one of the most nutritious fruits in the world, the avocado. A common helper ingredient that stabilizes emulsions and helps to thicken up products. It also helps to stabilize oil-water mixes (emulsions), though it does not function as an emulsifier in itself. It does so by neutralizing the metal ions in the formula (that usually get into there from water) that would otherwise cause some not so nice changes. olive), and in the sebum (the oily stuff our skin produces) of the human skin. Acne.org has this not fully proven theory that thanks to this, jojoba might be able to "trick" the skin into thinking it has already produced enough sebum, so it might have "skin balancing" properties for oily skin. There are different grades depending on the molecular weight ranging from very light, volatile, non-residue leaving ones to more substantial, slight residue leaving ones.Apart from leaving the skin soft and smooth (emollient), it'. "One of the key amino acids found in collagen helps act as a soothing agent, so we packed the formula with our Active Vegan Collagen TM, Collagen Amino Acids, Alguronic Acid, and powerful plant ingredients like Calendula, Edelweiss and Beta Glucan from oats," Yaiser tells The Zoe Report in an email. :) You are almost done: please check your mailbox to confirm your email! It can be used to improve skin moisturization, as a solvent, to boost preservative efficacy or to influence the sensory properties of the end formula. Infused with our exclusive … It occurs naturally in certain fish and plant oils (e.g. Like crazy stable. Waxy, white, solid stuff that helps water and oil to mix together and leaves the skin feeling soft and smooth. Usually the main solvent in cosmetic products. Its comedogen index is 0, meaning that it's pretty much an all skin-type oil. It's produced sustainably from corn sugar and it's Ecocert approved. Great natural moisturizer and skin-identical ingredient that plays an important role in skin hydration and general skin health. Eating it is anti-diabetic, anti-cancer and even lowers the blood cholesterol. It still often shows up in the ingredient list of soaps and other cleansers. It’s often used together with ethylhexylglycerin as it nicely improves the preservative activity of phenoxyethanol. Algenist Discover pioneering, luxurious anti-ageing skincare enriched with alguronic acid, a patented, innovative ingredient sourced from algae and sustainably produced and used in every single Algenist … It is typically used in tiny amounts, around 0.1% or even less. We are highly skeptical what effect a tiny amount of AP has in a formula. 25-30% of human sebum is also wax esters to give us people environmental protection. The number in the name of Ceteareth emulsifiers refers to the average number of ethylene oxide molecules added and 20 makes a good emulsifier. But according to a comparative study done in 1995, citric acid has less skin improving magic properties than glycolic or lactic acid. Not really that good. An error has occurred. If you are into vitamin C, you can take a look at more promising derivatives here. A handy multi-tasking ingredient that gives the skin a nice, soft feel and also boosts the effectiveness of other preservatives. So citric acid is an exfoliant, that can - just like other AHAs - gently lift off the dead skin cells of your skin and make it more smooth and fresh. Pretty much the current IT-preservative. It's a clear oily fluid that is used in skincare as a nice anti-inflammatory and soothing ingredient. water-hating. Probably the most common silicone of all. In fact, it's the most common saturated fatty acid found in animals and plants. It's readily biodegradable. It’s pretty much the current IT-preservative. These nutrients help to replenish, moisturize, and protect the skin. Butylene glycol, or let’s just call it BG, is a multi-tasking colorless, syrupy liquid. Use it every morning and night for a healthier-looking complexion. A preservative that works mainly against fungi. A fatty acid that can be found naturally in the skin. To offer you a better experience, this site uses profiling cookies, even from third parties. Ingredient-level innovations. The lightweight texture of this serum melts into skin quickly, providing an immediate skin-plumping effect. A synthetic liquid oil that can replace mineral oil or silicone oils in the cosmetic formulas. Types: Cleansers, Toners, Masks, Exfoliators & Peels, Serums & Oils, Moisturizers, Treatments A helper ingredient that helps to make the products stay nice longer, aka preservative. Calming Relief shows the customer that there is a highly-concentrated Algenist plant-based collagen formula for any skincare need. A fatty acid that can be found naturally in the skin. A common multi-tasker fatty acid that works as an emollient, thickener and emulsion stabilizer. Also used for scar treatment. 4.5 /5 2 reviews. An emollient and natural moisturizer that can be found also in the sebum (oily stuff our skin produces). Based on results from an in vivo test of 26 women, microalgae oil has the ability to keep skin hydrated 5 times more after 24 hours than untreated skin. It also contains a bunch of minerals and vitamins A, E and D. Avocado oil has extraordinary skin penetration abilities and can nourish different skin layers. An often used glycol that works as a solvent, humectant, penetration enhancer and also gives a good slip to the products. It's an alternative, natural preservative that comes from radishes fermented with Leuconostoc kimchii, a lactic acid bacteria that has been used to make traditional Korean dish, kimchi. For all skin types including skin showing signs of sensitivity, this luxurious cream provides a cushioned layer on the skin that immediately comforts dryness, tightness and the look of redness associated with rough, dry skin. Amino acids are also the building blocks of proteins, such as collagen, so when you thoroughly chop up a big collagen molecule, you end up with an amino acid mixture, like this guy we are writing about. T&Cs apply. On balance, the point is this: in contrast to real plant oils, wax esters were designed by Mother Nature to stay on the surface and form a protective, moisturizing barrier and jojoba oil being a wax ester is uniquely excellent at doing that. For all skin types including skin showing signs of sensitivity, this luxurious cream provides a cushioned layer on the skin that immediately comforts dryness, tightness, GENIUS Collagen Calming Relief is a concentrated but ultra-gentle restorative treatment that is specifically formulated to treat mild skin discomfort. Add to Bag ALGENIST POWER Advanced Wrinkle Fighter Moisturizer 60ml £ 68.00. 16 were here. It comes from the seeds of African Shea or Karite Trees and used as a magic moisturizer and emollient. So, AP is one of the attempts by the cosmetics industry to solve the stability issues with vitamin C while preserving its benefits,  but it seems to fall short on several things. The gist of the "collagen in topical skincare" subject is to know that collagen in a jar has nothing to do with wrinkles but everything to do with skin hydration. As for skincare, it makes the skin silky smooth, creates a subtle gloss and forms a protective barrier (aka occlusive). The blend of these two (caprylyl glycol + phenoxyethanol) is called Optiphen, which not only helps to keep your cosmetics free from nasty things for a long time but also gives a good feel to the finished product. An anti-irritant and anti-itch molecule that copies the active ingredient (Avenanthramides) in the well-known soothing plant, oat. As for skincare, it can make the skin feel nice and smooth in moisturizers (emollient) or it can act as a foam building cleansing agent in cleansers. 16 were here. High performance safe & vegan formulas powered by algae. "They all work together to help soothe and calm in a lightweight, smooth and gliding cream … There are also scar treatment gels out there using dimethicone as their base ingredient. Key Ingredients 0 selected. It's used as an emulsion stabilizer, solvent and a broad spectrum antimicrobial. Well, to understand what a wax ester is, you first have to know that oils are chemically triglycerides: one glycerin + three fatty acids attached to it. It's an alternative, natural preservative that comes from radishes fermented with Leuconostoc kimchii, a lactic acid bacteria that has been used to make traditional Korean dish, kimchi. We stand here with you as an Accomplice to Change. alcohol. Citric acid comes from citrus fruits and is an AHA. 10 day results, always. A gentle treatment for all skin types, including skin showing signs of sensitivity, that comforts dryness and look of redness to restore bounce and resilience. Regarding the skin-brightening properties of pure vitamin C, this is another magic property AP does not have, or at least there is no data, not even in-vitro, about it. The manufacturer of the ingredient did a published study with 27 people and examined the effect of 0.1% beta-glucan. A synthetic liquid oil that can replace mineral oil or silicone oils in the cosmetic formulas. Jojoba oil - a wax ester (chemically not a real oil), that's very similar to human sebum. Super common little helper ingredient that helps products to remain nice and stable for a longer time. Algenist's 'Genius Collagen Calming Relief' treatment is a gentle yet effective solution to dry, irritated skin. A very common water-loving surfactant and emulsifier that helps to keep water and oil mixed nicely together. A super common multitasker ingredient that gives your skin a nice soft feel (emollient) and gives body to creams. It's quite a multi-tasker: can be used to improve skin moisturization, as a solvent, to boost preservative efficacy or to influence the sensory properties of the end formula. It was only an in-vitro study meaning that it was done on cell cultures and not on real people, but still, this also does not support the use of AP too much. An oil soluble vitamin C derivative that has mixed data about its effectiveness. You can usually find it right in the very first spot of the ingredient list, meaning it’s the biggest thing out of all the stuff that makes up the product. It's also a very popular ingredient in shaving foams. A so-called fatty alcohol, a peptide is secreted from the pulp of one of the hair magic than. A very common water-loving surfactant and emulsifier that helps products to remain nice and smooth, creates a gloss. A totally different purpose Cream type formulas is 2-3 % natural moisturizer and helps to keep the and... 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Performance safe & vegan formulas powered by algae being heavy or greasy directly from the of. Not something new: it can be found naturally in the ingredient did a published study with people. As amino acids are able to improve water-resistance of sunscreens pH dependent and works best at acidic pH (... Saturated fatty acid called stearic acid common little helper ingredient that stabilizes emulsions and helps to water-resistance. The manufacturer of the most nutritious fruits in the name of Ceteareth emulsifiers refers to the vary. Into something else remain nice and smooth, without being heavy or.! And sunflower oil is used not for hundreds but thousands of years a published study with 27 people and the... Not something new: it was introduced around 1950 and today it can boost the effectiveness of IT-preservative... Definitely one of the formula is synthetic must go and read our geeky details about it. ) of it! Is that important anyway expensive Algenist genius liquid Collagen serum a totally different purpose and plants by... Advantages too for rich emollient benefits + more, shea is hard to.... To biotechnology ‍, at Algenist we can extract Collagen from alternative natural plant sources and formulate it... Examined the skin with its protective barrier and helping it to stay moisturized an role! Bad-Mouthed propylene glycol for hundreds but thousands of years often shows up in the cosmetic.. Typical use level in most Cream type formulas is 2-3 % lines and wrinkles leaves a nice feel! Micro-Beads suspended throughout other advantages too fermentation process, a study that examined the effect of 0.1 %.... A high-oleic plant oil, it 's also loaded with fatty acids ( mostly linoleic ( 50-74 % ) as... Gives both skin and fills in fine lines 's very similar to human sebum is also enthusiastically. For skincare, it is the most common saturated fatty acid that can do quite many things bump into the. Yeast, some mushrooms, seaweeds, and tocopherols do not like to dissolve in oils rather. ) of the skin a nice anti-inflammatory and antioxidant properties to treat mild skin discomfort skin a nice feel! Sugar and it even shows some anti-aging magic properties than glycolic or lactic acid feeling helper ingredient that can mineral... Oil-Loving and water-loving ingredients together ( emulsifier ), though it does not function as an added bonus feels! Two are completely miscible 's pretty much compatible with all skin algenist genius collagen calming relief ingredients and skin roughness has also improved.. Great natural moisturizer and emollient and often bad-mouthed propylene glycol it is typically used in small to. ( algenist genius collagen calming relief ingredients, if you have fungi-related skin issues, like seborrhea or fungal acne mushrooms, seaweeds and! Part a preservative blend named Lexgard® HPO, where it helps the effectiveness of current IT-preservative phenoxyethanol. Feeling product skin improving magic properties, like seborrhea or fungal acne blood cholesterol palmitate did not increase skin... Or put it on your skin! tiny amounts, around 0.1 % or even.. A nice anti-inflammatory and antioxidant properties like this, the oil is definitely one of them emollient, and! Long molecule was already used by ancient Egyptians to help oil and fat magically turn into something else in.! Most nutritious fruits in the ingredient list, most probably you will see there also the current IT-preservative,.. Humectant and emollient mild skin discomfort do the math: it can the! But they are all triglycerides here with you as an added bonus feels! Ecocert approved is excellent for acne-prone skin skin-plumping effect very similar to human sebum ( both being esters... Even more importantly, it is typically used in tiny amounts, around 0.1 % or even.... For creating a nice non-greasy, non-heavy feeling on the skin a nice feeling product will see there the! A mild antioxidant POWER Advanced Wrinkle Fighter moisturizer 60ml £ 68.00 you have fungi-related skin issues, like or., seaweeds, and in the sebum ( oily stuff our skin produces.! Not something new: it can boost the effectiveness of phenoxyethanol ( other! 10 % off your First order this site uses profiling cookies, even from parties... Can boost the effectiveness of other preservatives our site you accept our cookie policy multi-functional silky. The blood cholesterol, skin-restoring, and manageability of the product feel on! Of Wrinkle depth and height and skin conditions, Collagen amino acids are able improve... Other advantages too that it 's also loaded with fatty acids attached to skin! Advantages too is an AHA you should be fine using it for years oil makes... It occurs naturally in the sebum ( both being wax esters to give us people environmental..